This past Monday Jeff Mazen and I tasted a raft of wines from five Italian producers. The producers, some of whom have been represented in the United States in the past, ranged from Piemonte to Emilia-Romagna, Campania to Sardinia. We very much liked the Piedmontese wines, about which I've written little or nothing. Sad to say, we were again underwhelmed by the Sardinians. A very pleasing discovery was Cascine delle Rose, a small, organic winery...