Quick Guide to Alessandria, Piedmont

Published June 27, 2010 at 7:47 a.m.
793388-quick-guide-to-alessandria--piedmont The Historic City of Alessandria lies in the northwest of Italy, just 90 km from Turin. Head for the hat museum, admire the campanile and enjoy some fine food and great wines. 

...Alessandria, Lissandria in Piedmontese, is the capital of the Province of Alessandria in Piedmont. The city was founded in 1168 following the union of four villages, Borgoglio, Gamondio, Marengo and Rovereto. Named Alessandria, in honour of Pope Alessandrio III, it served as a major stronghold for the Lombard League against Frederick Barbarossa, the Holy Roman Emperor. A varied and sometimes violent history followed: besieged by Imperial forces in 1174, transferred to the Visconti family of Milan in the 14th century and passed to the house of Savoy in the early 18th century. For a short period, 1796 to 1814, it was the capital of the French département of Marengo, named after the site of Napoléon’s famous victory outside the city in 1800. In 1814 the city passed to the House of Savoy and Kingdom of Sardinia. A short time later it became a stronghold for the freedom movement in Piedmont before being garrisoned by the Austrians, following their victory at nearby Novara, in 1849. In the 20th century, during the Second World War, it was a major military target and subjected to intense Allied bombing. Today the city is not only known for its history, but for its pastries, hats, fine food and great wines.

Alessandria Must Do - Top Ten Tips:

1. Head off to the Museo del Cappello Borsalino, the Borsalino hat museum in Via Cavour.
2. See the 15th century Gothic church and cloister of Santa Maria di Castello.
3. Visit the 19th century Cathedral of St Pietro with one of the highest campaniles in Italy.
4. At the Palazzo delle Poste e Telegrafi see Gino Severini's mosaic blending cubism, futurism and more.
5. Admire the convent of San Francesco built during the 14th century by the Franciscan friars.
6. Visit the baroque Palazzo Ghilini, begun in 1732, with its octagonal atrium and grand double staircase.
7. See the Museo Etnografico, set in renovated 18th century barracks, for a glimpse of life in the 18th & 19th centuries.
8. View Santa Maria del Carmine, a three nave church built by the Carmelites between the 13th and 14th centuries.
9. See the massive 18th century star-shaped Cittadella on the left side of the river Tanaro (open only on special occasions).
10. At nearby Spinetta Marengo, visit the Battle of the Marengo Museum featuring curios, documents and weapons from 1800.
Local Events:
All day weekly market on Monday, Thursday and Saturday mornings in the Piazza Garibaldi: Fruit, Veg, Flowers and much more!
Fourth Saturday of every month: Organic Food and Produce Market in Piazzetta Della Lega (09:00 to 13:00).
First Sunday of every month (except August): Antique Street Market in and around Piazza Garibaldi.January 23rd: The city celebrates the Blessed Teresa Grillo Michel.February: Alessandria Carnival, an annual event with a procession of themed floats, marching bands and flag waving displays.June 14th: In the suburb of Spinetto, a reenactment of the Battle of Marengo is repeated every year.November: Fiera di San Baudolino, organised in honour of Alessandria's patron saint, San Baudolino, a food and wine exhibition featuring a wide range of local produce including the star of the show...truffles.
Food and Drink:

Local foods: Alessandrian Agnolotti, (Filled Patsa), Pollo alla Marengo (Chicken Marengo), Rabaton, medium size spinach ricotta gnocchi, Fraschetta beef sausages, Montebore cheese, Polenta di Marengo (a crumbly and tasty corn cake), Baci di dama (small chocolate and chestnuts cookies).Local Wines: Reds - Barbera, Dolcetto and Grignolino. Whites - Cortese and Moscato. Sweet - Brachetto.

Spotlight on 'Chicken Marengo':

Napoléon Bonaparte led a famous march across the Alps in May 1800, through the Great St. Bernard Pass and down into Italy's Po Valley. The next month his army not only surprised, but defeated the Austrians at the Battle of Marengo just outside the city of Alessandria. In the aftermath of the battle, Napoléon Bonaparte had become separated from his supply wagons and called upon his chef, Dunand, to prepare dinner. Dunand sent out a foraging party but they returned with meagre fare, just three eggs, four tomatoes, six crayfish, a small hen, garlic, oil and a pan. Legend has it that the chef cut up the chicken with a sabre, prepared and cooked the rest of the bounty, creating one of Napoléon's favourite dishes. Considered lucky, following the victory, Chicken Marengo was served to Napoléon after every battle there after, even though his chef tried to omit the crayfish on one occasion, much to the annoyance of Old Boney.

How to get there:

Alessandria is well situated and easily accessible by either motorway or train from Genoa, Turin and Milan airports.By Plane: The nearest airports are, Genoa Airport, 58 km, Milan Malpensa Airport, 70 km, Milan Linate Airport, 80 km and Turin Caselle Airport, 85 km.By Car: From the A21 Autostrada Turin - Piacenza - Brescia, exit at Alessandria Ovest. From the A26 Autostrada Genoa Voltri - Gravellona Toce, exit at Alessandria Sud.By Bus: From Milan Malpensa Airport there is a daily service.By Train: Alessandria FFS railway station is well connected to the Italian rail network. Turin, Genoa and Savona are all within easy reach (between 45 mins and 1 hr). From Milan Centrale station via Pavia, Voghera and Tortona takes abour 1 hour and 20 minutes.


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